Out and About

Farm to Fork: Celebrating North Carolina farmers as agents of social change

Southerners who consider themselves savvy about who grows food and how it gets to our tables have a tendency to romanticize the lives of farmers.

Posted Updated
NC farmers felt the worst of Florence
By
Cheryl-Anne Kast
CHAPEL HILL, N.C. — Southerners who consider themselves savvy about who grows food and how it gets to our tables have a tendency to romanticize the lives of farmers. We admire their grit, the devotion to the land despite the brutal whims of weather and their allegiance to traditional values.
John T. Edge, executive director of the Southern Foodways Alliance and author of the critically acclaimed “The Potlikker Papers: A Food History of the Modern South” would prefer that we recognize people who have farmed for generations and those new to the profession for who they are: agents of social change.
Credit: John T. Edge
“What I’ve realized in writing ‘The Potlikker Papers,’ and trying to make sense of the South in last 20 years, is that farmers and people who do work in the agricultural sector have long been radical - and they have led a kind of radical reinvention of the South,” says Edge, who will be featured Dec. 6 in the last of three 2018 fundraisers for Farm to Fork. Proceeds from the nonprofit’s events provide training and mentorship through the Center for Environmental Farming Systems in Goldsboro and Breeze Farm Incubator in Orange County.
The dinner and talk, to be held at Lavender Oaks Farm in Chapel Hill, will be prepared by several of the Triangle’s best-known chefs: Sean Fowler of Mandolin in Raleigh; Cheetie Kumar of Garland in Raleigh; Brendan Cox of Oakleaf in Chapel Hill; Wyatt Dickson of Picnic in Durham; Ricky Moore of Saltbox Seafood Joint in Durham; and Robert Kinneen of The Boot in Durham. Dessert will be prepared by Jonathan Fisher of Herons at the Umstead Hotel and Phoebe Lawless, formerly of Scratch Baking and the Lakewood. Counterclockwise String Band will perform. Tickets are $45 per person and may be ordered through the Farm to Fork website.

Edge likens many of today’s farmers to Fannie Lou Hamer, a Mississippi civil rights activist whose story is shared in “The Potlikker Papers.” One of Hamer’s signature empowerment programs was the Freedom Farms Cooperative in her home state. Members pooled resources and labor to grow cash crops as well as vegetables that provided vital sustenance to poor families.

“She secured her power on the farm and leveraged that power for a better and more inclusive South,” Edge says. “That’s the way I think about the power of agriculture in the South, past and present and future.”

While the Freedom Farms Cooperative ultimately was not sustainable, Edge sees echoes of its mission in the efforts of farmers who today rely on sustainable practices to feed their communities, and the regional cooperatives that aim to bring local produce to committed buyers. Among those who support them most fiercely are the chefs who insist on using locally grown produce in their restaurants, including those cooking for Farm to Fork patrons on Dec. 6.

“I can’t speak for [North Carolina farmers], but I think that this notion of claiming the land, or reclaiming it, can be a radical stand,” says Edge, who also advocates for equal access to fresh food in low-wealth communities, some of which are abandoned by chain grocery stores.

“These things matter to me,” Edge adds. “What interests me the most is the narrative that fits around people in the South, whether they be farmers or cooks or waitresses. Those narratives of Southerners who continue to reinvent this region – five generations deep or one generation. These people inspire me.”

Edge continues to examine the food of the South and the people who make it in TrueSouth, a four-episode series produced for the Southeastern Conference (SEC) Network of ESPN. He finds nothing unusual in a sports network wanting to tell the cultural story of its community through the lens of food.

“Football and basketball tell a story of the South, and food does, too,” says Edge, who hopes to return with six more episode next season.

The first four shows, each which focus on two restaurants in featured cities, can be viewed online on via the ESPN app.

 Credits 

Copyright 2024 by Capitol Broadcasting Company. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed.